{"id":6455,"date":"2016-02-08T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2016-02-08T13:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/rainydaymagazine.com\/wp\/?p=6455"},"modified":"2025-03-16T13:56:33","modified_gmt":"2025-03-16T17:56:33","slug":"tameshigiri-series-japanese-katana-tear-down","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/rainydaymagazine.com\/wp\/2016\/02\/08\/tameshigiri-series-japanese-katana-tear-down\/","title":{"rendered":"Tameshigiri Series: Japanese Katana tear-down"},"content":{"rendered":"

We\u00a0put the Windsor workbench<\/a> in the office so we can work\u00a0on various projects without having to go down to the shop. One of those projects\u00a0is learning how to maintain the katanas we\u00a0have acquired (from swordsmiths such as HanBon<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0LyueSword<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The katanas (#1<\/a>, #2<\/a>, #3<\/a>) are all full-tang blades which can\u00a0be taken apart for cleaning, polishing, or any other required services. Reading about how to do it is one thing, but when you can hold and examine the pieces\u00a0in your hands it’s an entirely\u00a0different experience. We\u00a0disassembled one<\/a>\u00a0for a better look at the blade, tang, and components for\u00a0this article.\u00a0While taking one apart is not difficult,\u00a0proper safety procedures\u00a0must<\/strong> always be observed.<\/p>\n

\"TakeApart_All\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The only thing holding the blade onto the handle is one or two small bamboo pegs (mekugi<\/em>). Tapping them out allows the blade to slide out. The handle’s fit to the tang may be quite snug and may not come free just by removing the pegs. We found\u00a0it helpful\u2014and a lot safer\u2014to first secure the blade in the wooden vise of our workbench (take care not to mar the finish on the blade), tap out the pegs, and THEN\u00a0gently\u00a0knock the handle (tsuka<\/em>) free with\u00a0a block of pine and a mallet.<\/p>\n

Needless to say, extreme\u00a0care must be taken in the handling of the freed blade.<\/p>\n

\n

Here is a closer look at the components<\/a>: Handle, spacer, guard, spacer, scabbard. Note that the tang has two holes. The pegs go through the handle and those\u00a0holes to secure\u00a0the blade, making it impossible for the blade to come flying out when cutting. While one\u00a0peg is sufficient, having a\u00a0second as\u00a0a back up just makes good sense.<\/p>\n

\"Handle_All\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Between the handle, the guard, and the blade collar are two spacers<\/a>. They protect the harder parts from each other and allow all the pieces to mesh together without damage.<\/p>\n

\"Guard_All\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below\u00a0is a close-up look<\/a> at the brass blade collar. Note that this piece is held in place by the fit only.\u00a0There is little to no gap as the\u00a0fit to the blade is quite good.\u00a0The notch in the collar is butted up against the back of the blade which prevents the guard from moving forward any further. The collar\u00a0will then stack up against\u00a0the spacers, guard, and all the other pieces<\/a> to follow.<\/p>\n

\"Collar_Fit\"<\/a><\/p>\n

In taking the katana apart, we came upon one \u00a0interesting and unexpected discovery: there were some characters<\/a> carved onto the flat section of the guard. They were covered by the spacers and not visible\u00a0when the sword was assembled. We have no idea what they are, but we’ll find out.<\/p>\n

\"Guard_Inscription\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Knowing how to take apart a katana is\u00a0useful\u00a0for cleaning and maintenance purposes, but it also allows one to have a more intimate understanding of the purpose of each component.\u00a0This is significant, as many owners\u00a0view the katana\u00a0as more than just a tool, but as an extension of their\u00a0martial and personal spirit.<\/p>\n

Amazon links:<\/b><\/p>\n